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Color Analysis Series Part 2: How to Discover Your Perfect Season and Find Your Most Flattering Colors

Monday, July 15, 2024

The Fashioneaseta/Dress Smart/Color Analysis Series Part 2: How to Discover Your Perfect Season and Find Your Most Flattering Colors
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At The Fashioneaseta, we're all about giving busy women simple style solutions and tools that will help them look and feel their best. Color analysis is one of those tools. For those who may not be familiar with it, color analysis is a systematic process of determining which colors best complement an individual's natural features, based on their unique combination of skin, hair, and eye color. The goal of color analysis is to identify a palette of colors that enhances a person's appearance, making them look healthier and more vibrant and youthful (all without any makeup!). This process involves categorizing individuals into seasonal color types (Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter), each with its own set of color characteristics. In 2023 I received certification as a 12 season color analyst. In this system, each of the four primary seasons is broken out into three sub-seasons, leading to a total of 12 seasons. In this blog post, we take you step by step on how we conduct in-person color analysis sessions to help clients determine their most flattering colors. 

All in-person color analysis sessions are done during the daytime in front of a mirror and window with natural sunlight. On a gloomy day, we add lighting that simulates natural sunlight. Clients should come wearing no makeup.

Step 1: Determine Contrast

Contrast is the difference in color depth between eyes, hair and skin. There are three main categories as it relates to contrast: 

  • Low:  Subtle difference between hair, skin, and eye color (Light skin/light hair/light eyes or dark skin/dark hair/dark eyes)
  • Medium:  Moderate difference between the lightness and darkness of someone's hair, skin, and eye color
  • High: Dramatic difference between hair, skin, and eye color (Fair skin and dark hair with either light or dark eyes)

Using Disney princesses as an example, Cinderella would be considered low contrast (light), Tiana would be low contrast (dark). Belle would be medium contrast and Snow White would be high contrast. 

​The concept of contrast is important in color analysis because as as color analysts, we work with the concept of harmony. A person's ideal color palette should reflect the natural contrast that someone already has in their features. In a color analysis session, we test for contrast using checked drapes:

Low Contrast Drape

Medium Contrast Drape

High Contrast Drape

Note that a person's contrast doesn't have to fall into just one of these three primary categories. Someone can be low-medium contrast or medium-high contrast. 

Step 2: Determine Brightness and Intensity

Every color has three main attributes: 

  • Hue: A color's name, such as yellow, orange, or green
  • Brightness: Also called "value" or "lightness", brightness refers to how light or dark a color is. Adding white to a hue "tints" the color to make it lighter while adding black to a hue "shades" the color to make it darker
  • Intensity: Also known as "chroma" or "saturation", intensity measures the purity level of a color in terms of how sharp or dull the color appears. Adding grey to a hue "tones" a hue to make it softer and more muted

Based on their unique combination of hair, skin, and eye color, a person will inherently look better in either light or dark colors and either bright or muted colors. Again, we use various drapes to test for brightness and intensity. 

Brightness

Light Colors

Dark Colors 

Intensity

Soft (or muted) Colors

Bright Colors 

Step 3: Determine Undertone

Undertone relates a person's skin tone. In color analysis, there are four main skin tones: 

  • Warm: Skin tone has a "golden" appearance
  • Cool: Skin tone has as more of a pink or olive appearance
  • Netural Warm
  • Netural Cool

In color analysis, skin tone is never truly "neutral". Even for those with a neutral skin tone, it will still have an underlying undertone that is either cool or warm. This becomes especially important when selecting the appropriate makeup and hair colors. 

​We again use various drapes to test for undertone. With these drapes and all others used as part of the color analysis session, we are testing for harmony between the drape and the client's hair, skin, and eye color. This includes checking for brightness and evenness of skin tone and assessing how colors affect blemishes, spots, and undereye discoloration.  

Warm colors 

Neutral Colors

Cool Colors

Step 4: Test for Jewelry Tone(s)

An individual's undertone significantly influences which jewelry tones look best on them. For example, warm undertones will look best in gold while cool undertones look best in silver. Since undertone can be subtle and potentially tricky to determine, we generally follow the undertone drapes with the jewelry drapes as the next step in the session. 

Step 5: Test Individual Color Palettes

Next, we test individual color palettes. In the 12 season color analysis system, there are 12 seasons, each representing a different color palette:  

Each of the 12 seasons represents a different mix of the characteristics that we previously tested for: lightness, intensity, and undertone, and each has a defining characteristic based on one of these three characteristics. For example, while the colors in the bright spring palette are considered light, bright, and warm, the defining characteristic of this palette is that the colors are bright. Note that there is often overlap between colors in the various seasons.

Depending on a client's contrast, certain color palettes can be eliminated at this stage. While medium contrast individuals can theoretically be any of the 12 seaons, there is an inherent disharmony between some of the 12 seasons and clearly low and high contrast individuals that we generally test only seven of the 12 palettes for these clients. 

When testing each of the seasons, in addition to analyzing how the colors in each palette affect the client's complexion as noted above, we also check for visual harmony between the colors in each palette and the client's skin tone, hair, and eye color.

​After checking each of the seasonal color palettes and analyzing all of the other information collected in steps 1-4, we can usually tell a client which of the 12 seasons is their optimal color palette. In instances when more than one palette may be optimal, we'll go through Step 6 before making a final determination on the client's best season.

Step 6: Test Individual Color Drapes

As part of the color analysis session, in addition to finding out which of the 12 seasons is their optimal color palette, a client also receives a custom palette based on over 100 individual color drapes representative of the various seasons. This custom palette is essentially the client's "best" or "wow" and is not limited to colors within their optimal season. This is due to the fact that there is often overlap between the colors in the various seasons as well as the fact that skin tone, hair color, and eye color is unique for everyone, and because of this, unexpected colors outside of your palette may be among your best colors. 

Here's an example of the custom palette for a recent client whose optimal season was "Cool Summer": 

Step 7: Discuss Best Hair Colors

For clients who have purchased the 90 minute color analysis session, after going through the individual color drapes, we determine a client's best hair colors. To maintain harmony, a person's hair color shouldn't be more than two tones above or below their natural hair color. For highlights, it's important to keep a person's natural contrast, which generally means highlights no more than four tones below their natural hair color. The undertone of the client's skin and hair also needs to be considered to create the greatest sense of balance and harmony. For example, someone with a neutral warm or warm skin tone will look best with warm, not ashy highlights. 

Step 8: Discuss Best Makeup Colors

Color analysis is just as, if not more important, for selecting the most flattering makeup colors as it is for clothing. If you choose not to wear makeup, wearing your best colors close to your face (you can always wear whatever color bottoms you like, regardless of your season) will automatically brighten and even out your complexion. I often see a "glow" when testing certain colors on clients when we've hit upon their best colors. If you like to wear makeup and you're wearing the "right" makeup colors, it will enhance your features and create a greater sense of balance and harmony.

The "right" and "wrong" makeup colors will depend on your undertone. For example, If you have a cool skin tone, you should not be wearing a warm foundation or warm-toned blushes and lipsticks. If you choose to wear makeup colors in the wrong undertone, note that it is only "wrong" from a balance and harmony perspective. Sometimes fashion is about making a statement, and if that's your goal, then wear whatever colors strike your fancy!

 We ask clients to bring the makeup they currently wear to assess the consistency of their makeup with their undertone. For clients who are interested in makeup recommendations, we have foundations, blushes, and lipsticks for them to try. 

Step 9: Mini Wardrobe Styling Session

Clients who purchase the 90 minute session can bring up to 5 items from their wardrobe for us to assess from a color perspective. We'll also suggest the best color matches to mix with those pieces, even if the color of the item isn't necessarily one of your "wow" colors.

While this concludes the color analysis session, we email the client the following deliverables after their appointment: ​

  • A customized presentation that summarizes the color characteristic findings from the session (contrast, lightness, brightness, and undertone), includes the best colors in their overall season (winter, spring, summer autumn), hair and makeup recommendations, and ​ideas on how to mix and match colors in their color palette to create a cohesive and chic look. 
  • Color card with the best colors for their optimal season as well as the "sister" season with the same defining characteristic. Every season has three other sister seasons. Two of the sister seasons are the two other sub-seasons within that overall season. For example, for a bright spring, light spring and warm spring are two of the three sister seasons. The third sister season is "Bright Winter". The sister seasons are the other seasons that are most likely to have colors that are the most flattering for a person's unique combination of hair color, skin color, and eye color. I've found that a client's second best season is generally the sister season with the same defining characterestic. Hence, the reason why I provide the color card for this sister season as well.
  • Photos of their custom palette from Step 6

Color analysis can be a powerful tool for those who are looking to simplify their wardrobe and look their best or are simply curious as to what colors are most flattering on them. In addition to helping clients determine their season, we can also help them integrate their best colors into their current wardrobe. In addition, we offer online color analysis for those who are outside of the Richmond, VA, area. Contact us at info@thefashioneaseta.com to schedule your color analysis appointment or personal styling service.  

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Hi, I'm Roxanne!

Style Coach and Educator/ 12 Season Color Analyst

My goal with The Fashioneaseta is to help busy working women create a sense of ease in how they dress so that they look and feel their best while also saving time and money in the process. Let me help you create a wardrobe that you love of stylish, comfortable, multi-functional pieces that are a true reflection of you.

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